Japan

“Fortune will come in to a house with laughter’’

— Japanese proverb

Dear J,

I am here at Heathrow airport again and I am so excited as I am waiting for my ANA airlines flight to Tokyo. Japan has been high up on my must visit list for a long time and this trip promises to be something special with some special excursions arranged by the Japan tourist board.

After a comfortable 12 hour flight with perfect Japanese service and courtesy we arrived at Tokyo Haneda airport which is only a short journey from the centre of Tokyo. We were quickly moved through the airport and onto a waiting coach to take us to our hotel in the city. I now know that all the things I had heard about Japanese punctuality and timekeeping are completely true, everything was like clockwork. My first surprise and gift on the coach was a wifi dongle so I could be in touch wherever we went.

Our hotel is the Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa which is a comfortable city hotel and after checking in and a quick shower and change it was time for my first meal in Japan. Our group were booked a table in the main buffet restaurant and I remember you telling me that I would love Japanese food but I really did not know what to expect. It was amazing all about perfect presentation and flavours. Roast beef, slowly cooked with bones so that it is full of flavour, seafood and meats cooked on the grill in front of you, delicious. Sushi, sukiyaki, shabu- shabu and pasta there was so much to choose from and then we got to the deserts. A lovely way to start my Japanese adventure but after nearly 24 hours on the go it was an early night for me looking forward to what tomorrow had in store.

My first morning in Tokyo began well with beautiful sunshine and a spectacular view over the city from my room, the air looks very clear. Tokyo is a huge urban area and is part of an industrial region that includes Yokohama, Kawasaki and Chibu. My view suggests that they all join into one but we shall soon find out.
After a quick breakfast we set off on our first trip to explore some of the surrounding area and on to Hakone, near mount Fuji.
Once out of the city the drive was very scenic and the weather clear and crisp with a lot more countryside than I expected we soon arrived at our first stop of Hatajuku and the Yosegi Kaikan. Yosegi-zaiku is a form of traditional Japanese parquetry which dates back hundreds of years and we were given a lesson and also the chance to try our hand at making something to bring home. The Yosegi Kaikan showcases and sells the traditional items that are famous in this area but I do not think my effort will make it to the gift shop although it was fun to do.

Moving on from Harajuku we were able to walk along part of the old Tokaido road which was the main route between Tokyo and Kyoto in the 1600's when Tokyo was a fishing port called Edo. The road is paved and winds its way through tall trees and undergrowth with bamboo on both sides. The sunlight on the trees was beautiful and it was amazing to think of the old Japanese traders walking this route over 400 years ago that have worn the stones so smooth. About 2 kilometers into our walk and just around a bend we came to Amazake Chaya, a teahouse that has been welcoming travellers since the 1600's. This was the kind of Japan I was looking forward to and inside was just like stepping back in time, dark and smokey with a sunken fireplace. We sat around on cushions to sample the Amakaze, a sweet thick rice wine, served hot with pickles, and mochi, glutinous sweet rice cakes. Apparently this was considered a sports energy drink in the Samurai era. I'm not sure about that but it certainly was welcome after our walk.

Today lunch had been arranged at Auberge au mirador and what a treat this was. The restaurant is over 30 years old and is based on an East meets West fusion. They take the carefully crafted cuisine and apply it to locally sourced produce and so the dishes can only be found here. The presentation was like the finest dining experience and the tastes spectacular. It was hard to describe some of the dishes as they are so unique to this restaurant where the menu changes with the seasons and ingredients availability. I hope that you can get an idea of it from my pictures.

The afternoon was taken up with a visit to Hakone's most famous Shinto shrine.The Hakone Jinja Shrine is on the shores of lake Ashinoko at the foot of Mount Hakone and dates back to the year 757. The setting is beautiful with views across the lake to Mount Fuji in the distance. It really is just like all the pictures I have ever seen. This shrine is one of the most important in this region and many military commanders prayed here which brought it fame throughout the country. Now travellers and locals alike pray here with the shrine receiving over 2 million visitors every year. The imposing vermillion lacquered torii gate on the lakeside," the red gate of peace" marks the entrance of the path that leads to the buildings hidden in the hillside. We were shown round the treasure house, " homotsuden" which houses and displays ancient artifacts from the history of the shrine. I was also able to observe a blessing ceremony and ring the bells for good luck and prosperity. This is the Japanese equivalent of a major cathedral and in its own way just as impressive and spiritual, I am so glad I was able to experience it.

The afternoon was fast drawing to a close and it was time to move on to our hotel for the night, the Sansuri Ryokan. Apparently this is a must do as no visit to Japan is complete without a stay in a Ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn. We were greeted by our hosts and ice cold beer, very welcoming, and given our "yukata", cotton dressing gowns and a set of pyjamas to wear in the hotel. This was loungewear at its best. My room was the next surprise with sliding doors, tatami mat flooring and not a lot else, very interesting. I managed a nice shower and changed into my pyjamas to join the rest of the group for dinner. We had been given a private room and were able to relax and laugh at ourselves all dressed the same sitting at very low tables on the floor. Japan is constantly surprising and we were entertained to another wonderful meal, 10 courses of delicate meats, fish and pickled vegetables all elegantly presented and served. The food sounds a lot but in reality it is so delicate and flavoursome that it is easy to work through all the courses and it was washed down with delicious Japanese wines.

After dinner there was one more surprise for us, a traditional "onsen " bath. The bath was on the rooftop of the hotel and filled with warm natural spring water which is considered healing and good for the skin, all of the skin. The bathing was separate, men and women, as it is traditional to bathe naked. Quite a step with people you have only known for a couple of days but under a star filled sky after such a wonderful day it was an experience not to be missed and certainly better than any spa experience I have had before. More girl talk whilst getting dried and back into our robes then time for bed but what bed. I didn't have one.
Arriving back at my room I was greeted with a gorgeous looking futon laid on the floor and after changing to my own nightwear climbed in for a much needed sleep. "Oyasuminasai", sweet dreams.

The bed

Suitably refreshed and back in my robe it was down for breakfast which again was a culinary feast of fish and pickled vegetables, very delicate and served beautifully. So much food, we are being truly spoilt. After breakfast it was time to get back to our own clothes and leave the Rykon behind, a wonderful experience and so relaxing to live life in lounge wear. ( Little did I know what this year had in store for us all. )

Breakfast

I had been missing my gym and exercise routine but the next adventure would soon make up for that as well as burning up some of the delicious food we have had. We were going to spend the morning canoeing on lake Ashinoko under the awesome gaze of Mount Fuji, a real one off experience. Our guide took us around and across the lake showing us the views which are truly breathtaking. Mount Fuji is an iconic view but seen from a canoe on this lake it was so special. I could have spent the whole day here gliding around like a swan but no, our hosts had yet another meal for us. This trip is rapidly becoming a culinary extravaganza.

Lunch was served at the XIV resort hotel, a private members hotel on the lakeside, and by way of a change was only 3 courses of exquisite Italian food. Italian food Japanese style is delicious and just what I needed after all that activity on the lake.

The rest of the afternoon would be our return to Tokyo but we would also be stopping off at the Kirin Whisky Distillery. Now as you know I am more of a Gin girl myself but I am willing to give anything a try. Whisky is a very popular drink in Japan and some of the best whisky in the world is produced in the country.
The tour around the distillery and being educated as to the process was really interesting made all the more so by our very enthusiastic and animated guide, a small fast talking Japanese lady. We saw cask upon cask of whisky ageing in the storage areas before being led off to the tasting area. I sampled 5 different blends and could certainly taste the differences that come from the water used or the type of cask that the whisky had matured in. 5 different tastes and shades of honey gold.

Feeling nicely relaxed after our lunch and alcoholic afternoon there was time for a little snooze as we made our way through the late afternoon traffic which was very busy. so busy in fact that we had to go straight to our diner venue at the Grand Ginza Hotel.
A private dinner for our group of the most amazing French cuisine followed and was a lovely way to end this part of my trip. I have had an action packed couple of days with culture and fun broken up with the most amazing food, seriously I don't think I can eat any more.
I am looking forward to the next couple of days in Tokyo and some new adventures and experiences.