Palma
The ultimate city break for city dwellers.
Exploring the cobbled streets of the old town
Palma’s old town is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, where terracotta and stone walls give way to hidden court yards and sun soaked rooftops. Every narrow staircase and winding alley leads to a charming boutique; an expertly curated lifestyle shop set in an old palace; a bustling bakery, or aromatic small eatery.
We stayed in Carrer del Sol in the heart of the old town, in a stylish boutique hotel within sight of the cathedral. Beyond an unassuming facade of stone and tall wooden doors, the reception of the boutique reveals a tranquil open air courtyard framed by a spiralling marble staircase and exposed wooden beams. Above, a terracotta rooftop terrace is nestled among oatmeal and stonewashed rooftops, within view of the cathedral and churches below. In the warm evenings, we sipped cold drinks while the sun’s warm glow receded over the bewitching old buildings.
At night, the town takes on an even more romantic character. We sauntered down the quiet and dimly lit streets, exploring the diverse and thriving gastronomy scene in the city. Tables spill out onto cobbled streets and squares, serving a plethora of small plates. Wherever we looked as we meandered around the old town’s streets, beauty was abound. Grand cathedrals, sun washed scarlet walls, hidden luscious courtyards and twisting stone lanes illuminated by the warmth of the Mediterranean. The old town is like a small and untouched time capsule, where every five minute walk reveals yet another marvel amidst the striking architecture of the town.
Style and food
Effortless elegance seems to be the maxim of locals, whose simple yet graceful sense of style rivals that of Parisians. Maybe its the benefit of being a city in the Mediterranean, nestled between sea and mountains that brings about a sense of ease and naturalness; think sun-kissed skin, crisp white shirt, flowing linen, the crinkling of cotton and swathes of colour from breezy scarves.
This sense of grace translates to the food culture of Palma, where friends and neighbours cluster around small tables of tapas and wine at a local eatery, in squares and in small alleys until the depths of night. As a city by the sea, Palma is relaxed and intimate, but also metropolitan in its dining scene and sense of style.
The Merchants on Carrer del Apuntadors delighted us with its secret courtyard, in which diners are seated at softly lit round tables and dine amongst sprawling trees. The steak and grill menu features British and modern European classics. We opted for the grilled hake, served beneath a bed of tomato salsa, and the half lobster, served with butter and chargrilled lemon.
There’s no shortage of choice in pan European and even pan Asian dining in Palma, but as a more traditional option, Casa Maruka stood out as probably the best meal during our stay. We ventured out of the old town to find the restaurant on Carrer de la Reina Maria Cristina; a quiet residential street. As soon as we walked into the intimate reception behind tall slatted doors, we were treated with a sense of generosity throughout our experience.
Casa Maruka feels like being invited into a friend’s home, and being cooked for by their grandma. The decor is paired back, and the intimate space was buzzing with locals at night. We opted for the fish of the day, and were almost in disbelief at the generous size of the juicy hunk of tuna belly we were served. The fish was licked with the char of flames; complemented by a sumptuous salad of sweet roasted peppers and onions immersed in a generous volume of golden olive oil. We took the advice of diners who left online reviews, and vouched for the apple pie—and are so glad we did. The apple pie was more of a flan; soft roasted apples speckled with spices atop a paper thin pastry.
In the day, Mercat de l’olivar is an Aladdin’s cave for foodies. The indoor market at the heart of the city houses stalls teaming with fresh fruits, bread, crockery, and spreads of glistening fish and seafood atop beds of crushed ice. Locals and tourists brush elbows in the market’s many food stalls, where peckish passerby’s indulge in an array of tapas, sushi and oysters.
On our last afternoon in Palma, we perched at one such tapas bar in the market. We sampled Galician octopus served generously on a platter and flecked with fiery paprika, and creamy croquetas de bacalao. I’ve become convinced that the only way to lunch, is amidst a teaming market perched at a tapas stall, after the experience.
Coast and sea
During the first night of our travels in Palma we stayed at the marina, where the sound of clinking boat masts filled the air at night. Although the avenue by the marina is home to the kind of garish tourist stretch that Palma has unfairly become synonymous with, just a few minutes further up the coast and into the city are evocative quaint streets filled with authentic eateries and bars.
The marina is also the departure point of the many boat trips that take visitors out into Palma bay, and around the rocky coast line. We opted for a company that offered small group boat trips in a catamaran. In the early morning, we departed the marina—gliding across Mediterranean waters to look back at the astonishing view of the city from sea. We dived into the inviting azure water, as the boat made a stop beside the island’s rugged coastline. As the breeze ripped through our hair, we spent the afternoon bobbing in the middle of the salty sea, aboard the catamaran.
Platja de Can Pere Antoni is the closest strip of beach from the old town of Palma; a mere ten minutes walk away. The soft sand gives way to the warm and silky water. We spent a late afternoon floating in the almost non existent waves, admiring the view of the majestic cathedral from within the mellow sea.
A new perspective of wellbeing
Palma is the ultimate city break for city dwellers; it’s a departure from the northern European cities that we know and live in. Palma feels like a generous city, from its inviting sea and coastline to the culture and hospitality of locals. It’s a place where diverse dining, beautiful architecture and style are abundant.
As the first holiday outside of the UK in two years, our trip to Palma renewed my perspective of wellbeing. Wellbeing is about the ability to explore new places, new cultures, and venture off the tourist trail. It’s about connecting with new people through the discovery of food, and authentic experiences. Wellbeing is about being inspired by the beauty we find around ourselves. Travel is like medicine for the soul, and I feel so grateful that we are able to embark on new adventures again.